If you have a dog that tears up the house when you're gone, or chews his own fur until he's raw he may not be a "bad boy." Instead, it may be a sign of a serious psychological problem in dogs known as separation anxiety. When Fritz pulls up the linoleum by the door, or scratches the walls and doors until they, and his paws are a mess, take a good look at when these actions are occurring. If they're happening only when you leave him alone in the house, especially for extended periods of time, it's likely not because he's looking for trouble, it's because he's panicking about being away from you.

Separation anxiety has been a problem for certain types of dogs for hundreds of years, but it's only recently that veterinarians and animal behaviourists realised that Fritz isn't being bad. Punishing your dog for destroying the house, the yard if his kennel is outside, or even himself will only make the problem worse instead of better. That's why so many dogs became known as incorrigible until experts realised what was really going on.

In the most extreme cases of separation anxiety, you don't even have to leave the house to see the effects on your dog. Even leaving the dog in a different room, or in his dog crate can bring on attacks of separation anxiety. In fact, a case of separation anxiety is one of the only reasons when crate training is not a good idea right off the bat. The usually very safe crate that keeps your dog out of trouble can turn into a mini torture chamber where Fritz will tear up his own paws clawing at the metal bars on the door or the sides of a wire crate. Being in such a small enclosure with no room to move can also aggravate those who would chew at themselves and you can end up with a dog bleeding from cuts and scrapes from his very own teeth.

The Best Ways to Handle Doggie Separation Anxiety

Start with very short periods of absence. Initially, try as short as a minute, yes that short. Simply go out the door, and tell Fritz you're leaving. Don't make a big deal, just say something that becomes his cue to deal with your going out. Use a line you will think of easily each time so it's always the same, such as "be good" or "be back in a bit." Avoid commands that can be confused with other obedience commands such as "stay put," "sit still," or even just "stay." The object isn't to teach Fritz to never move from one spot. You want him to begin to understand that when you say you're leaving, he can be assured you will return.

After you give him his "line," close the door behind you, and walk a few paces away from the door. It helps a lot if Fritz can't see out a window or screen and look for you. He has to think you've truly disappeared. In the beginning, regardless of what he is doing, you're going to go right back in after a few seconds; even if he's howling or scratching. Don't make a really big deal out of being back. Don't play with him. Instead, simply sit down in a normal location, and pet him calmly.

Repeat this often over the course of a couple days where you don't have to go anywhere else for any period of time. Don't make the time longer, just say his words, leave, wait a few seconds and go back in. After a few days, then it's time to make it more effective, give Fritz his words, and leave, but do not go back in the house until it is quiet inside, or you can tell he isn't scratching at doors or walls. It can be more difficult to tell with a dog that damages himself, and if you can place yourself at a window where you can see him, but he can't see you it will be an advantage.

It can take a lot of time to overcome deep-seated separation anxiety, especially if it has gone untreated for months or years. If the above method isn't working for you and you have to return to work or school, ask your veterinarian for advice, and perhaps considering some tranquilisers to use when you need to be gone for long periods of time during treatment.